Welchen Knopf Beim Sakko Zu Machen

Willkommen! You've probably noticed that Germans, and indeed many Europeans, pay close attention to detail when it comes to dressing smartly. And one of those details that can make or break an outfit involving a suit jacket (Sakko) is: Which button to button? It might seem trivial, but mastering this simple rule can significantly elevate your appearance and prevent any faux pas during your stay. Let's break it down, making sure you're always dressed to impress!

The Golden Rule: Never Button the Bottom Button

The most important thing to remember about buttoning a Sakko is this: never, ever button the bottom button. This isn't just a suggestion, it's practically a sartorial law. Think of it as the German equivalent of knowing which fork to use at a fancy dinner – vital for navigating social situations with confidence.

This rule applies to both two-button and three-button jackets. You'll find very few exceptions to this rule, and even then, they are niche examples of high fashion or very specific historical interpretations.

Why the Bottom Button Remains Undone

There are a few reasons behind this unwritten rule. Understanding them will help you remember it and appreciate its importance:

Freedom of Movement: Leaving the bottom button undone allows the jacket to drape properly. Buttoning it restricts your movement, causing the jacket to pull and bunch up, particularly when you sit. This creates an uncomfortable and unflattering look.
Shape and Silhouette: Suit jackets are designed with a specific cut and silhouette in mind. The bottom button is deliberately left unbuttoned to maintain the intended shape. Buttoning it disrupts the flow of the fabric and makes the jacket look boxy or ill-fitting.
Historical Origins: Some attribute the rule to King Edward VII of England. Legend has it that he grew too large for his waistcoats and began leaving the bottom button undone, and his courtiers followed suit (pun intended!). Whether this story is entirely true or not, it reflects a broader historical trend of prioritizing comfort and elegant drape in tailoring.
Visual Balance: An unbuttoned bottom button helps to create a visual balance. It allows the jacket to "open up" slightly at the hem, creating a more relaxed and approachable impression.

Two-Button Jackets: A Simple Guide

For a two-button Sakko, the rule is straightforward: always button the top button, and never button the bottom button. That's it!

When standing, the top button should be fastened. When you sit down, you can optionally unbutton it for greater comfort. Re-button it when you stand up. This small action shows attention to detail and an understanding of sartorial etiquette.

Think of it this way: you're essentially using the top button as an anchor point, ensuring the jacket hangs correctly and presents a clean, sharp appearance.

Three-Button Jackets: The Trickier Case

Three-button jackets require a little more nuance, but the core principle remains the same: never button the bottom button.

The most common approach is to button either the middle button or both the top and middle buttons. Which option you choose depends on the cut of the jacket and your personal preference.

Buttoning the Middle Button Only: This is often the safest and most versatile option. It works well with most three-button jackets and provides a balanced, classic look.
Buttoning the Top and Middle Buttons: This can create a more formal and assertive impression. However, it's crucial to ensure the jacket is cut to accommodate this buttoning style. If the jacket pulls or feels tight when you button both, stick to the middle button only. Some jackets are explicitly designed to have the top button fastened, but this is usually indicated by a more pronounced lapel roll that "hides" the top button.

When to Unbutton: As with two-button jackets, you can unbutton your three-button Sakko when you sit down. Again, remember to re-button it when you stand up.

The Top Button's Role: The top button of a three-button jacket is often considered optional. Some jackets are designed with a longer lapel that covers the top button, suggesting it's primarily for aesthetic purposes. In other cases, the top button is fully visible and intended to be buttoned. Let the cut and fit of the jacket be your guide.

Single-Button Jackets: The Exception That Proves the Rule

Single-button jackets, often seen in more contemporary or fashion-forward designs, are a special case. In this situation, the single button should always be buttoned when you're standing. The purpose of these jackets is to create a streamlined silhouette, and leaving the button undone would defeat that purpose. You can unbutton it when you sit.

Double-Breasted Jackets: Another Set of Rules

Double-breasted jackets have their own distinct set of buttoning rules, but they share the common principle of maintaining a specific shape. Generally, you should always button all the functional buttons on a double-breasted jacket when standing. Some double-breasted jackets have a decorative button that's not meant to be fastened.

The internal "anchor button" (often hidden) should always be buttoned first to secure the jacket's closure. Then, fasten the visible buttons. Unbuttoning is generally reserved for sitting down or when you're in a more relaxed setting. However, be aware that unbuttoning a double-breasted jacket can alter its shape significantly.

Practical Tips and Considerations

The Fit is King: The rules about buttoning are predicated on a well-fitting jacket. If your jacket is too tight or too loose, buttoning it correctly won't compensate for a poor fit. Invest in tailoring to ensure your jacket drapes properly and accentuates your physique.
Observe and Learn: Pay attention to how well-dressed Germans wear their jackets. Observe their buttoning habits and notice how the jackets drape. This will give you a visual understanding of the principles we've discussed.
When in Doubt, Ask: If you're unsure about the correct buttoning protocol for a particular jacket, don't hesitate to ask a salesperson or a knowledgeable friend. It's better to err on the side of caution than to commit a fashion faux pas.
The Occasion Matters: While these rules are generally applicable, there may be some situations where slight variations are acceptable. For example, in a very casual setting, you might choose to leave your two-button jacket unbuttoned altogether. However, for business meetings, formal events, or generally when you want to present a polished appearance, stick to the established guidelines.

Final Thoughts: Mastering the Button Game

Buttoning your Sakko correctly is a small detail that can have a big impact on your overall appearance. By understanding the rules and principles we've outlined, you can confidently navigate social situations and present a polished, professional image. Remember the golden rule: never button the bottom button. With a little practice and attention to detail, you'll be mastering the button game in no time, and looking every bit the stylish traveler during your stay in Germany!